Ancient town of Arles

We boarded a train in the St. Charles station in Marseille in the dark and I panicked.  Was this the right train? It looked more like a local train that a TGV.  Moments before we left the station, I hopped out of my seat and asked a passenger, “Is this train going to Arles?”  She didn’t know.  Her friend thought so.  Brewster, always so calm and level-headed, pulled up a google map. “Mom, it’s cool. We’re on the right train. Arles is in the direction of Perpignan, the last stop of this train.”

My adrenaline dissipated and I relaxed.  Sadie dealt a hand of cards and we played “President” for the entire 45 minute train ride to Arles. I realized this card game is the same as a drinking game I played in college called “Asshole”.  The only difference is there are no sips of keg beer between tricks and the A-hole in President is called “Shmole”.  Our family loves to play cards and it is a integral part of our travel.

The three of us walked into the old town of Arles from station easily arriving at our hotel a little after 8pm.  Our hotel was located in Forum Square which used to be the political and religious center of Roman Arles.  There are bistros lining the square making it quite the scene especially on a Friday night.  We chose a spot to have dinner and enjoyed the perfect evening autumn temperature.  Two bummers of that night was that everyone around us smoked.  I notice how culturally acceptable it is to smoke in France, but it is not ideal, especially when dining.  Secondly, Sadie was catching a cold and cough.  These two factors forced us to wrap up our dinner quickly and head back to our hotel room across the square.   The weekends are a treat for Sadie as we share a bed.  Brewster doesn’t mind that tradition either especially when there are just two double beds.

The nicest part of Arles is all the sites are compact and accessible by foot.  We woke up on Saturday morning and after our croissant and coffee, we headed out to explore.  Our first stop was the Saturday market.  It was a beautiful array of colors and people! I loved the food and flowers.  The streets were packed with families and people of all ages shopping for the week. I just learned this new phrase: C’est typiquement français (it’s typically French)

After the market, we walked to the main gate of the city and started our self-guided walking tour through Arles.  Vincent Van Gough lived in Arles starting in 1888 until he cut off his ear and went to St. Rémy to a mental institution.  The city has done a nice job of highlighting his paintings from his time in Arles.  While none of the original paintings are there, the city has set up about ten steel and concrete easels comparing Van Gough’s pairing to the current city view.

All afternoon, we walked around the town looking for the easels while enjoying the ancient sites.  A Roman Arena was built 2000 years ago for Gladiators who fought wild animals in front of 20,000 spectators.  Next to that is a Classical Théâtre from the 1st century BC where 10,000 people could watch performance.

We ate a panini at a local sidewalk café and explored another old square, Place de la République where the City hall and a beautiful cathedral called St Trophime are located .

By the end of the afternoon, the kids were ready to relax so we went back to our hotel and sat in the pretty garden and swam until it was time to walk back to our train.  The water was SO cold that the kids could barely stay in for more than a minute, but they had fun trying.  It was a refreshing way to end our day.

A couple hours later, we were back in our apartment in Aix-en-Provence and happy it was only Saturday night.  Brewster played basketball on Sunday and the routine of school started again Monday.  This was the kids last week of school before the two week “All-Saints” break.   The primary school celebrated Halloween yesterday at school with a costume party and treats. Parents were invited so  I joined Sadie for a magic show and party.

I sat alone at the school, watching the French parents socialize.  I imagined their conversation. My French is not good enough to engage, so I just sat with a smile on my face.  It is awkward,  like “a table for 1” without the comfort of your phone.  I look at it as a practice of patience and stillness.  I have a new appreciation for those who don’t spake English or have friends at school functions.  It’s not easy to be alone when everyone around is not.

After awhile, Sadie sweetly invited me to have a snack with her friends.  I visited with two of her Indian friends who speak English.  They had never celebrated Halloween before so this was all new.  Sadie was quite the expert on the subject.

I have made a couple friends,  just not through the school.   I participate in a French conversation class on Thursdays and met a few women.  My friend Alisa who is ThaiAmerican and married to a French man, invited us to her house a few kilometers out of town last night. I was happy that the bus went close enough to her house that we could go easily.  I was stunned how beautiful the country side is being so close to the city.  We didn’t stay long because the last bus ran was just an hour after we arrived and the kids felt a little awkward themselves.  But it was nice to socialize with other adults.

I learned two interesting things about the French while I was at Alisa’s.  When the French greet each other or say goodbye, they kiss twice, once on each cheek. I knew that, but I didn’t realize is a handshake or hug is very awkward for the French.  No touching, just two kisses on the cheek. Secondly, when serving cheese, the French cut from the center of the cheese so the guest tastes a bit of the center and the rind.  I am sure if I stayed later, I would have learned more!

We were happy to be home last night and to wake up this morning, Saturday, October 20th.  Today is the day that Matt arrives! It has been six weeks since we have been together and we are so grateful the day has come!  He is flying Salt Lake-Paris and then Paris-Marseille. We’ll head to the airport to meet him this afternoon.  He’ll be here for the two week break through his birthday on November 3rd.   We leave on Tuesday for Nice, Corsica and Florence.  On paper, it looks a like a honeymoon with kids!  We are so blessed and looking forward to more travel.